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Question About 4 Mil Mylar2971

COLLECTOR DarthLego private msg quote post Address this user
Also, 4 mil is not too thick when used properly. You have to either use half backs or size your bags one size up. When you actually know what you're doing they work fine.
Post 26 IP   flag post
Collector rickdod3 private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattness

I use THREE fullbacks + 1 silver age (BCW cheapo board as a space filler)
, per modern book, in a Mylite2.


Woah! Might as well put the book on a cinderblock and bag it up lol
Post 27 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickdod3
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattness

I use THREE fullbacks + 1 silver age (BCW cheapo board as a space filler)
, per modern book, in a Mylite2.


Woah! Might as well put the book on a cinderblock and bag it up lol


That is the idea, in a way.

Protecting a spine is key when subbing books.
Post 28 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savage_Spawn
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savage_Spawn
Ok..... So best combo that covers all or most scenarios is silver/gold 2 mil bags with either modern half back or full back boards???
No, the Gold are way to big for most comics. The book could move around too much which could lead to damage.


So silver bags and modern boards


No.

For bronze/coppers/moderns, only use Standard M2's with Standard Full Backs.
Post 29 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthLego
Also, 4 mil is not too thick when used properly. You have to either use half backs or size your bags one size up. When you actually know what you're doing they work fine.


This is not good advice.

You are giving away the rigidity of a thicker, and wider, support system when you opt to use half back moderns in a atandard Mylite4.

You are trading in the much more valuable benefit of keeping spine ticks away for a harder bag. You basically are creating a pressurized bag, which by nature, stresses a books' spine.
Post 30 IP   flag post


Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
@CopperAgeKids I did not realize that full backs are thicker than half backs. I thought the difference was about acid free on one side vs both sides. Not sure?
Post 31 IP   flag post
Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
I just looked it up. I did not realize how much more thicker the full backs are. Looks like about twice as thick. Hmmm!
Post 32 IP   flag post
Collector J_Walker private msg quote post Address this user
What type of damage do air pockets from not scoring flaps cause on the comic?

I recently re-bagged / boarded 2 full short boxes using EGerber standard sized 2 Mil Bags with Full-Backs (and some leftover 4 mil's sprinkled in). Now I'm wondering if I should go back and score each flap.

Before boxing the comics I definitely remember seeing some air pockets. Especially on the 4 mil's. But once I boxed the comics, the air pockets appeared to get "pressed out" by the slight pressure of the other comics in the box.

I read that air pockets aren't good when shipping a comic, but couldn't find anything about comics that are in long-term storage.
Post 33 IP   flag post
Collector Grayspeedster private msg quote post Address this user
Here is a info directly from E. Gerber. The pictures for the HB and FB both show the recommended sizes from the company who sells them. I'm sure any questions can also be cleared up with a quick phone call, I've heard their customer service is excellent and I intend to order through them myself in the near future!

Mylites4



HalfBacks



Fullbacks

Post 34 IP   flag post
Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
@J_Walker I think you ahould be fine. Like you stated, once they were pressed together by the pressure of the other books in your short boxes, the air should move out. Me personally, I slide my hand across the book pushing the air up then I score the flap with my fingernail and tape it over on the back. That way I push the residual air out first.
Post 35 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Walker
What type of damage do air pockets from not scoring flaps cause on the comic?

I recently re-bagged / boarded 2 full short boxes using EGerber standard sized 2 Mil Bags with Full-Backs (and some leftover 4 mil's sprinkled in). Now I'm wondering if I should go back and score each flap.

Before boxing the comics I definitely remember seeing some air pockets. Especially on the 4 mil's. But once I boxed the comics, the air pockets appeared to get "pressed out" by the slight pressure of the other comics in the box.

I read that air pockets aren't good when shipping a comic, but couldn't find anything about comics that are in long-term storage.


Air pockets can eff your books up, when they are stored in even a short box, let alone a long box.Thibk about flipping thru a long box, than cinsider that in doing so, you're unecenly exerting close to 50 pounds of weight, onto the books at the opposite end of the box.

Breaking the bolded down part, here you have it....

Air pockets
+
pressure

= unevenly distributed force.

That in itself, the "pressing" you described, is enough to cause spine ticks.

I'd start with the first book in the box, pull one book out at a time.Take it out of the bag/board and then crease the flap. I suggest using scissors to cut the tape.

While youre at it, use scotch gift tape, when you re-bag/board the books.

What I do is use 5 pieces of scotch gift tape on the back of each flap.

I lessen the grip of the tape by applying each piece to my thumb, and removing it...totaling 15 times.That way, the gift tape will pop off the Mylite2, without trouble.

For long term storage of copper/moderns or when shipping/subbing them for grading, I double bag everything.

A modern book is bagged and boarded with 3 full backs, and then a cheapo BCW silver, is slid in, as a final space buffer.

I take that product, insert it into a pre-creased silver/gold mylite2 with a single full back.Then I add a cheapo golden age BCW board, as a buffer.

I actually had a discussion like this on the CGC Forums, last year.I posted pics , of what my bagged/boarded end product looks like.I'll pull those images off my desktop later tonight or tomorrow, and post them here.



Rinse and repeat.

Don't start leafing through the box,
Post 36 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
@J_Walker I think you ahould be fine. Like you stated, once they were pressed together by the pressure of the other books in your short boxes, the air should move out. Me personally, I slide my hand across the book pushing the air up then I score the flap with my fingernail and tape it over on the back. That way I push the residual air out first.


Yeah, you're right about pushing the air out but not the rest.

You should be pre-creasing the Mylite2's with just the full backs.That is what makes for a solid glove like fit when you insert the book/full backs.Your method leaves a residual amount of slack, that is not present, when flaps are precreased without the substrate (book) inside.
Post 37 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
This all may sound super OCD/anal retentive as eff all, but I aim for getting the highest grade possible, when I sub books.
Post 38 IP   flag post
Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by CopperAgeKids
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
@J_Walker I think you ahould be fine. Like you stated, once they were pressed together by the pressure of the other books in your short boxes, the air should move out. Me personally, I slide my hand across the book pushing the air up then I score the flap with my fingernail and tape it over on the back. That way I push the residual air out first.


Yeah, you're right about pushing the air out but not the rest.

You should be pre-creasing the Mylite2's with just the full backs.That is what makes for a solid glove like fit when you insert the book/full backs.Your method leaves a residual amount of slack, that is not present, when flaps are precreased without the substrate (book) inside.
Actually I had some free time earlier today and rebagged my silver age X-Men. I used Standard size Mylite2's and half backs. They fit pretty firm in there but not too tight. I wonder if I would have problems with full backs which I do not own. That seems like it would make it almost too tight. I first smoothed the air out and creased the flap down. Then I use 2 removable price stickers reom Avery on the back. They pull of the Mylite nicely if I was to open it up later.
Post 39 IP   flag post
Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user

Post 40 IP   flag post
Collector Savage_Spawn private msg quote post Address this user
Awesome discussion and great advice!!!😎🍺
Post 41 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
Quote:
Originally Posted by CopperAgeKids
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
@J_Walker I think you ahould be fine. Like you stated, once they were pressed together by the pressure of the other books in your short boxes, the air should move out. Me personally, I slide my hand across the book pushing the air up then I score the flap with my fingernail and tape it over on the back. That way I push the residual air out first.


Yeah, you're right about pushing the air out but not the rest.

You should be pre-creasing the Mylite2's with just the full backs.That is what makes for a solid glove like fit when you insert the book/full backs.Your method leaves a residual amount of slack, that is not present, when flaps are precreased without the substrate (book) inside.
Actually I had some free time earlier today and rebagged my silver age X-Men. I used Standard size Mylite2's and half backs. They fit pretty firm in there but not too tight. I wonder if I would have problems with full backs which I do not own. That seems like it would make it almost too tight. I first smoothed the air out and creased the flap down. Then I use 2 removable price stickers reom Avery on the back. They pull of the Mylite nicely if I was to open it up later.


2 small price stickers isn't enough to apply adequate pressure when sealing M2's.

Half backs are for $5 mid grade books, they arent good for anything else, IMHO.

SA books, like the books you pictured, should be in silver/gold mylite2's with 2 silver/gold full backs.

Standard Mylite2's are too tight on SA books, half backs are too flimsy to provide adequate spine support.
Post 42 IP   flag post
Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
@CopperAgeKids Yes, but I have never heard of someone using 5 pieces of tape on the back flap. That seems a little overkill.
Post 43 IP   flag post
COLLECTOR DarthLego private msg quote post Address this user
I've seen the corners of half backs get bent up during shipping, even when packaged properly, so I'm all on board the Church of Fullbacks.

When I re-bag I always use fullbacks and a bag one size larger to avoid being too tight.
Post 44 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
@CopperAgeKids Yes, but I have never heard of someone using 5 pieces of tape on the back flap. That seems a little overkill.


Overkill?

I'll straight up bust a cap in a fool.

Ya best watch yaself wif dat cuz I'm hardcore like a mug, dawg.

Here's a few pics to show ya how Big Poppa C rolls dem books out, when I subz 'em.

Boo yah, son.Dat's a tite set up.

Eh, but seriously though...I take no chance with my books getting spine ticks....








Post 45 IP   flag post
Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
Do all your books have 5 pieces of tape or just the ones your sending out?
Post 46 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthLego
I've seen the corners of half backs get bent up during shipping, even when packaged properly, so I'm all on board the Church of Fullbacks.

When I re-bag I always use fullbacks and a bag one size larger to avoid being too tight.


Nyet, comrade.

Tight is good.

What I do, whenever I sub books, is to strip books out of my $5 and $10 convention boxes.

I use those Mylite2's & Full Backs, to bag/board books that I have graded.

I do this because the Mylite2's have stretched out/expanded a 'lil bit, from having boards and a book inside them.

And the recycled full backs are equally important, those puppies are like gold

Brand new full backs don't have a broken in concave to them, concaves like that are ideal to cradle a spine...that's how you prevent spine ticks.
Post 47 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
Do all your books have 5 pieces of tape or just the ones your sending out?


All 'of em
Post 48 IP   flag post
Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
I know this one LCS that runs packaging tape all the way across the back. I have to take a knife to the back to cut the tape to get the book out. If you pull on the tape, it stresses the book. I think I will get some full backs. I could always double up some half backs. I do that on the more expensive books.
Post 49 IP   flag post
Collector CopperAgeKids private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
I know this one LCS that runs packaging tape all the way across the back. I have to take a knife to the back to cut the tape to get the book out. If you pull on the tape, it stresses the book. I think I will get some full backs. I could always double up some half backs. I do that on the more expensive books.


Yeah, that's no fun.

I usually just cut the tape, whenever I buy raws off ebay...99% of dealers/sellers on ebay don't know how to package books.

Btw, you're safer off taking a shary box cutter blade, along the top of the polybag, while the book lies on a flat surface.That's what I do, personally.
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