Mylar Suppliers | CBCS Comics

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reelgee
@HexView Quote:
Originally Posted by HexView
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrano0521
I use 4 mil Archival Mylars after putting comics in regular bags with “normal” boards.

That's a total waste of a Mylar. You're defeating the whole purpose of using Mylar
how so??

The mylars and boards (half-back or full backs) are specifically created to not damage your comic. The bags are made of a Dupont created polyester (type of polyethylene, more specifically BoPET). No acid, no degassing, gas impermeable and should essentially never break down as long as not left in direct sunlight for extremely long periods of time. The boards are specifically manufactured to be pH neutral and not degas as a result of chemicals used in the production. "Normal" bags are a polypropylene which is gas permeable and degrades over time (they get wavy). Though still considered archival material, there's a protection drop-off and the bags have to be replaced regularly (I'd say no longer than 10 years, but probably every 5). Traditional, cheap boards, degas all kinds of chemicals over sub-decadal scales that can damage comics.

The issue I see with your method is actually the board you're using. A polyethylene bag in a mylar should still get the mylar protection from gas permeability. But since it's gas impermeable trapped inside the mylar, you shouldn't be locking it in there with a non-archival board that's degassing chemicals into the system.

Of course, there's an ongoing discussion about comics that also degas chemicals from the ink/paper used (particularly moderns, the paper quality is...questionable at best). Lock those into something that's fully archival and don't give them a chance to degas chemicals from manufacturing could negatively impact the material, long-term. I would never put a brand new comic in a mylar; needs time to breath and release the highest chemical concentrations first. The ink is also crap quality and the "shiny" side of normal boards is less harsh for color rubs if the back cover is colored. Having some time of "storage period" in cheaper bag/board combo for modern comics may let them degas and allow the ink to better set before putting them in the mac-daddy archival materials. How long? No idea, anyone here a chemist?

Collector 4.06K	4.06K etapi65 private msg quote post Address this user	plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 3
	I don't trust the BCW boards. As much as they tout them being acid free, I have found them to damage books. And in relatively short periods of time. They're presumably designed to absorb the acids that might come out of books...but then they become acidic, lose their buffering ability and begin to damage the cover in contact spots. Even BCW suggests you have to replace their boards every 3-5 years to avoid this issue. Any longer and the chemistry change to the board will begin damaging your book. BCW claims the acid absorption is a good thing...I'm not convinced that it is a good thing (or that their boards even do this). It indicates that the board is actually chemically altering the book, which I'm not sure is the right way to go. BCW has an article here, for which the results still put e.gerber in front. If what they say is occurring is true, not only would the pH of the BCW board be dropping (which it does), but the comic SHOULD demonstrate a rising pH, which it does not. If all of that acidity is coming out of book and neutralizing the backer board, then why isn't the comic becoming less acidic? If the board is absorbing the acid...then why does the e.gerber stored comic show the exact same pattern of pH change occurring in the book, but with no change in board pH? My conclusion using their own data is that their board does nothing useful other than providing rigidity. Instead, the results say to me that their board is deteriorating because the buffer they put in the board is deteriorating (getting more acidic, or absorbing it's own leaching acids). The board becomes acidic (not due to absorption of comic acids) and reaches the point comic damage begins. Then, we can get into any role microchamber paper may play in enhanced conservation or speeding deterioration. It seems that if you have a smelly book (mildew, smoke, etc..) I think they can help, but I'm not so sure about using them permanently. Which can bring us around to a discussion about CGC encapsulation procedures. By the way, I'm not an expert on this, but have done a lot of reading on preservation. Honestly, there's no chemists out there (to my knowledge) whose specific area of study is archiving comics and that have published peer reviewed articles. A lot of the products aren't necessarily old enough to draw any conclusions over multi-decadal temporal resolutions for which we're trying to get answers. The materials from which the comics are constructed has also been variable, adding an additional confounding factor.
	2 years ago	Post 32 • IP flag post

Collector 14.3K	14.3K Darkseid_of_town private msg quote post Address this user	plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 0
	Someone should post the thread from a year ago when I tried to warn people ugh
	2 years ago	Post 26 • IP flag post

Collector 967	967 Reelgee private msg quote post Address this user	plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 0
	@HexView Quote: Originally Posted by HexView Quote: Originally Posted by cyrano0521 I use 4 mil Archival Mylars after putting comics in regular bags with “normal” boards. That's a total waste of a Mylar. You're defeating the whole purpose of using Mylar how so??
	2 years ago	Post 27 • IP flag post

I wish I had a title. 4.38K	4.38K ComicNinja0215 private msg quote post Address this user	plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 0
	I'm gonna check Ebay. Gonna need some for the books I just bought.
	2 years ago	Post 29 • IP flag post

Collector 967	967 Reelgee private msg quote post Address this user	plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 0
	thanks for the intel very helpful, the reason i ask is that i started rebagging my books and i did find that i have some still in bag 30 plus old some was like you said ink imprint on boards, bags yellow, books stuck together,books were bending creating spine tics.after some research i decided to go with 2mil mylar from bcw and their boards. then i found egerber and found it was cheaper per 1000 bags so i change to them but kept bcw boards. i got samples of egerber boards and found that putting two bcw together was thicker than egerber fullback didnt stop to think about the gas stuff in the mylar bags plus i like how they look with the books.So i guess my question to u is bcw boards up to par in your opinion, and what if you mix the two(full/half back front, bcw back)to get more thickness just curious.
	2 years ago	Post 30 • IP flag post

Collector 981	981 Bobashek private msg quote post Address this user	plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 3
	I didn't even think about that on new books. I automatically put books over $35 right into mylars.
	2 years ago	Post 31 • IP flag post

Collector 4.06K	4.06K etapi65 private msg quote post Address this user	plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 5
	Quote: Originally Posted by Reelgee @HexView Quote: Originally Posted by HexView Quote: Originally Posted by cyrano0521 I use 4 mil Archival Mylars after putting comics in regular bags with “normal” boards. That's a total waste of a Mylar. You're defeating the whole purpose of using Mylar how so?? The mylars and boards (half-back or full backs) are specifically created to not damage your comic. The bags are made of a Dupont created polyester (type of polyethylene, more specifically BoPET). No acid, no degassing, gas impermeable and should essentially never break down as long as not left in direct sunlight for extremely long periods of time. The boards are specifically manufactured to be pH neutral and not degas as a result of chemicals used in the production. "Normal" bags are a polypropylene which is gas permeable and degrades over time (they get wavy). Though still considered archival material, there's a protection drop-off and the bags have to be replaced regularly (I'd say no longer than 10 years, but probably every 5). Traditional, cheap boards, degas all kinds of chemicals over sub-decadal scales that can damage comics. The issue I see with your method is actually the board you're using. A polyethylene bag in a mylar should still get the mylar protection from gas permeability. But since it's gas impermeable trapped inside the mylar, you shouldn't be locking it in there with a non-archival board that's degassing chemicals into the system. Of course, there's an ongoing discussion about comics that also degas chemicals from the ink/paper used (particularly moderns, the paper quality is...questionable at best). Lock those into something that's fully archival and don't give them a chance to degas chemicals from manufacturing could negatively impact the material, long-term. I would never put a brand new comic in a mylar; needs time to breath and release the highest chemical concentrations first. The ink is also crap quality and the "shiny" side of normal boards is less harsh for color rubs if the back cover is colored. Having some time of "storage period" in cheaper bag/board combo for modern comics may let them degas and allow the ink to better set before putting them in the mac-daddy archival materials. How long? No idea, anyone here a chemist?
	2 years ago	Post 28 • IP flag post

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