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Storing comics in Gemini cardboard mailers16487

Collector persianninja private msg quote post Address this user
Hello all,
quick question... I store most of my comics in BCW bins minus the more collectable stuff.
For the more expensive collectable comics, I can fit comfortably 2-3 comics (that are already Poly-bagged+boarded) in one Gemini mailer and store all the mailers in a mostly air-tight plastic box in a dark closet.
I like how the Gemini mailer protects the comics if I'm stacking them horizontally in the plastic bin, but was reading about how some things (like backing boards and plastic covers) interact with comics (like off-gasing, acid) to make them wear more over time.
Do you think the cardboard Gemini Mailers would do the same or it'll be fine?
Note that the comics are not laying directly on the cardboard mailer, they are still bagged and boarded.

It's just easier for me when get something shipped from ebay to just put the Gemini Mailer into the box (after I of course open the mailer and make sure the correct comic was sent and looks good )...
versus try to see if I can squeeze a more expensive comic in my vertical-stacked BCW bins (which are either packed and worried about squeezing in a comic ... or 'too loose' and I'd be worried about them bending/curving in there if that makes sense).

Anyway, let me know, I just started re-collecting comics past few months so they only been in mailers for a couple months.
Thanks!,
Ari
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Collector Darkseid_of_town private msg quote post Address this user
I would be wanting to verify if the gemini mailers contain acid, or are made from acid free cardboard first...if they are not acid free, this would be a no.
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Collector BrianGreensnips private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid_of_town
I would be wanting to verify if the gemini mailers contain acid, or are made from acid free cardboard first...if they are not acid free, this would be a no.
Good point. Outside of that I would think you should be fine. I would also recommend on the more expensive books upgrading to Mylar and acid free boards though. Check out E Gerbers sight and it's best to buy them in bulk 1000 at a time.
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Collector persianninja private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGreensnips
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid_of_town
I would be wanting to verify if the gemini mailers contain acid, or are made from acid free cardboard first...if they are not acid free, this would be a no.
Good point. Outside of that I would think you should be fine. I would also recommend on the more expensive books upgrading to Mylar and acid free boards though. Check out E Gerbers sight and it's best to buy them in bulk 1000 at a time.


I was debating Mylar's. I don't have anything terribly expensive, mostly things under a couple hundred bucks.
Most regular boards from comics shops are already acid-free I assume as thats what I been using.
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The apple sauce and pudding were the best part... Bronte private msg quote post Address this user
I buy the cheapest possible bags and boards because my stuff generally goes straight to grading and to spend money on anything better for a few weeks to me is pointless. However, if you are going to do long term storage, standard bags and boards will yellow your books and bags will deteriorate. Some of my books from early 90s have yellowed severely and some bags have disintegrated to where there are holes. I would follow advice of the more seasoned collectors on tbe forum and splurge on tbe Gerber bags and boards. You would be surprised how many folks put a priority on white pages.
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Collector Bakersman private msg quote post Address this user
I agree with the above recommendations with the Mylite2 Mylar bags. I bought my first stack of 100 with full back boards last yr. I am completely satisfied with the results. Not only are they safer long term but the books them selves show very well with that ultra clear plastic. Note Mylite4's are even thicker which allows the book to be kind of semi-pressed or at least squared off while in storage but sadley do NOT fit in BCW black plastic bins. While on the subject of storing I did not know this and probably would have not cared 10-15yrs ago but comic bag companies want you to swap out bags every 3-5yrs (ofcourse they do). Seems insane I know but the alternative is heavy yellow staining and or even holes like above mentioned.
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Hello, my name is Stu and I'm a shill. HexView private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by persianninja
I was debating Mylar's. I don't have anything terribly expensive, mostly things under a couple hundred bucks.
Most regular boards from comics shops are already acid-free I assume as thats what I been using.

If they have a shiny side I think they're more like "acid free at the time of manufacturing". Only boards like Gerber Fullbacks with no shiny side are truly acid free.
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Masculinity takes a holiday. EbayMafia private msg quote post Address this user
I use Gemini mailers for storing books that don't lend themselves to normal filing. Things like Mark jeweler inserts or obscure old titles that didn't last very long. Or books that I bought just because I liked the cover. I stack 3-4 Gemini's inside a large shoe box. They are all bagged and boarded, so I've never been concerned about the details of the mailers construction.
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Collector Darkseid_of_town private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by HexView
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid_of_town
I was debating Mylar's. I don't have anything terribly expensive, mostly things under a couple hundred bucks.
Most regular boards from comics shops are already acid-free I assume as thats what I been using.

If they have a shiny side I think they're more like "acid free at the time of manufacturing". Only boards like Gerber Fullbacks are truly acid free.
I did not post that...odd
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Collector persianninja private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid_of_town
I did not post that...odd

Believe I responded to HexView's comment, who in turn replied to your comment... so since my reply qouted both users, guessing it alerted both of you.
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Hello, my name is Stu and I'm a shill. HexView private msg quote post Address this user
Sorry, that was my fault, and I fixed it.
Post 11 IP   flag post
Collector Darkseid_of_town private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by HexView
Sorry, that was my fault, and I fixed it.
thanks, i wondered is all.
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Collector 50AE_DE private msg quote post Address this user
I think if you're storing a bagged and boarded comic in a gemini then it shouldn't be much different than storing them in a regular comic box since they're protected. I have comics I bought way back from the early 80s that were placed in cheap backing boards and a poly bag. Other than the old comic smell, the book looks pretty dang good for a 40 year old comic stored in non-acid free boards and bags.

Here is an example of one of these books.




This is the front of the backing board.




This is the back of the board. I'm sure some of you may recognize the old brown-back backing boards.




This is the back of the book.




After all this time being protected by a less than ideal board, this is what the interior looks like.




The book does have a slight acidic smell to it, but the appearance of the book looks pretty good considering the inferior product used, however the poly bag that they sold back then were really clear and even to this day they're super clear.

I'd say that if this book can survive decades in this bag/board combination with the cardboard actually touching the book, you'll probably be fine, however YMMV. I had 6 New Mutants 98 stored in the same bag and board combination and they all came back with white pages (4-9.8, 1-9.6, and 1 8.5).
Post 13 IP   flag post
Collector 50AE_DE private msg quote post Address this user
My preferred method for very expensive books that aren't encapsulated is putting the book into a 4 Mil mylar inside of a larger size 10 Mil mylar. The combination of the two makes the book stiff enough so that I don't need to put a full back behind the book. The only problem with the 10 Mil mylar is scratches show up pretty easily on the mylar.

Here is the front and back of a book I have in a 4 Mil and 10 Mil combination. Kind of overkill, but I like being able to see both sides of the cover.





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Collector cyrano0521 private msg quote post Address this user
Corrugated cardboard is definitely not recommended for long term storage of paper. Geminis are not exactly corrugated but they’re also not the same as comic box cardboard. Definitely have to contact Gemini or the knockoff maker, to find out if it’s safe.
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Collector persianninja private msg quote post Address this user
I'll start using Mylars at least... Mylites2 seems nice for most of my comics...
How about a very thick comic like "Amazing Spiderman 300, Italian Version, L'Uomo Ragno 91".
Its a bit of a thick book (think its 2 comic books 299 and 300 basically, so 72 pages) and felt like a very tight squeeze into the Mylites2.
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Collector PolarisNuclearSS2020 private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by 50AE_DE
My preferred method for very expensive books that aren't encapsulated is putting the book into a 4 Mil mylar inside of a larger size 10 Mil mylar. The combination of the two makes the book stiff enough so that I don't need to put a full back behind the book. The only problem with the 10 Mil mylar is scratches show up pretty easily on the mylar.

Here is the front and back of a book I have in a 4 Mil and 10 Mil combination. Kind of overkill, but I like being able to see both sides of the cover.








I'd say this is actually a very bad idea.

The Myllar itself is exerting stress on the entire book, most prominently on all 4 sides.

You are basically intoducing the same issue present with the old "The Fortress" comic cases and the 2016 CGC holders without inner wells.

Those designs used pressure, and that's what you are doing here.


I'd store books like this in a SA/GA Mylite* with 2 SA/GA full back boards**. Than laid on a sheet of corrugated cardboard, placed in a Kraft indestructo U-Line box.

If the book has been pressed and spine roll removed, a Mylite2 could be used.

Same advice applies to the OP, Gemini's are thin cardboard with perforated edges.

This translates into weak support.


https://www.uline.com/BL_1407/Kraft-Indestructo-Mailers



^
Not a brand new Mylite2, a Mylite2 that has been already used and stretched out slightly, to offset pressure issues.

I also only use "recycled" full backs that have been been "molded" into a natural concaved position to cradle a book's spine.

Every brand new fullback pack of 50 boards, even when buying by the case, has been slightly warped by the shrinkwrap.

Both FB's and Mylite2's should be "broken in" with common books (of the same era/size) before bagging/boarding better books with them.

I'd offer the same advice to @persianninja , as well.
Post 17 IP   flag post
Collector 50AE_DE private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by ComicHoarder
Quote:
Originally Posted by 50AE_DE
My preferred method for very expensive books that aren't encapsulated is putting the book into a 4 Mil mylar inside of a larger size 10 Mil mylar. The combination of the two makes the book stiff enough so that I don't need to put a full back behind the book. The only problem with the 10 Mil mylar is scratches show up pretty easily on the mylar.

Here is the front and back of a book I have in a 4 Mil and 10 Mil combination. Kind of overkill, but I like being able to see both sides of the cover.








I'd say this is actually a very bad idea.

The Myllar itself is exerting stress on the entire book, most prominently on all 4 sides.

You are basically intoducing the same issue present with the old "The Fortress" comic cases and the 2016 CGC holders without inner wells.

Those designs used pressure, and that's what you are doing here.


I'd store books like this in a SA/GA Mylite* with 2 SA/GA full back boards**. Than laid on a sheet of corrugated cardboard, placed in a Kraft indestructo U-Line box.

If the book has been pressed and spine roll removed, a Mylite2 could be used.

Same advice applies to the OP, Gemini's are thin cardboard with perforated edges.

This translates into weak support.


https://www.uline.com/BL_1407/Kraft-Indestructo-Mailers



^
Not a brand new Mylite2, a Mylite2 that has been already used and stretched out slightly, to offset pressure issues.

I also only use "recycled" full backs that have been been "molded" into a natural concaved position to cradle a book's spine.

Every brand new fullback pack of 50 boards, even when buying by the case, has been slightly warped by the shrinkwrap.

Both FB's and Mylite2's should be "broken in" with common books (of the same era/size) before bagging/boarding better books with them.

I'd offer the same advice to @persianninja , as well.


I took a look at the book again and was mistaken, it's a 2 mil mylar in a GA 10 mil mylar. There isn't much pressure on the book as the internal mylar can be pulled out without any issues. There is about a 1/8" on either side of the 2 mil mylar and about 3/16 to 1/4" between the 2 mil and 10 mil mylar.

I didn't think there would be too much pressure using this method. I've seen dealers use the method you've described where they put a book in a 2 mil mylar with 2 layers of full backs. I would think that would put a lot of pressure on the book more than my method.

I'm not too familiar with the issues with the fortress cases. Does it have anything to do with shaken comic syndrome?
Post 18 IP   flag post
Hello, my name is Stu and I'm a shill. HexView private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by ComicHoarder
Quote:
Originally Posted by 50AE_DE
My preferred method for very expensive books that aren't encapsulated is putting the book into a 4 Mil mylar inside of a larger size 10 Mil mylar. The combination of the two makes the book stiff enough so that I don't need to put a full back behind the book. The only problem with the 10 Mil mylar is scratches show up pretty easily on the mylar.

Here is the front and back of a book I have in a 4 Mil and 10 Mil combination. Kind of overkill, but I like being able to see both sides of



I'd say this is actually a very bad idea.

The Myllar itself is exerting stress on the entire book, most prominently on all 4 sides.

You are basically intoducing the same issue present with the old "The Fortress" comic cases and the 2016 CGC holders without inner wells.

Those designs used pressure, and that's what you are doing here.


I'd store books like this in a SA/GA Mylite* with 2 SA/GA full back boards**. Than laid on a sheet of corrugated cardboard, placed in a Kraft indestructo U-Line box.

If the book has been pressed and spine roll removed, a Mylite2 could be used.

Same advice applies to the OP, Gemini's are thin cardboard with perforated edges.

This translates into weak support.


https://www.uline.com/BL_1407/Kraft-Indestructo-Mailers



^
Not a brand new Mylite2, a Mylite2 that has been already used and stretched out slightly, to offset pressure issues.

I also only use "recycled" full backs that have been been "molded" into a natural concaved position to cradle a book's spine.

Every brand new fullback pack of 50 boards, even when buying by the case, has been slightly warped by the shrinkwrap.

Both FB's and Mylite2's should be "broken in" with common books (of the same era/size) before bagging/boarding better books with them.

Broken in? That's ridiculous 🤣
Post 19 IP   flag post
Collector PolarisNuclearSS2020 private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by 50AE_DE
Quote:
Originally Posted by ComicHoarder
Quote:
Originally Posted by 50AE_DE
My preferred method for very expensive books that aren't encapsulated is putting the book into a 4 Mil mylar inside of a larger size 10 Mil mylar. The combination of the two makes the book stiff enough so that I don't need to put a full back behind the book. The only problem with the 10 Mil mylar is scratches show up pretty easily on the mylar.

Here is the front and back of a book I have in a 4 Mil and 10 Mil combination. Kind of overkill, but I like being able to see both sides of the cover.








I'd say this is actually a very bad idea.

The Myllar itself is exerting stress on the entire book, most prominently on all 4 sides.

You are basically intoducing the same issue present with the old "The Fortress" comic cases and the 2016 CGC holders without inner wells.

Those designs used pressure, and that's what you are doing here.


I'd store books like this in a SA/GA Mylite* with 2 SA/GA full back boards**. Than laid on a sheet of corrugated cardboard, placed in a Kraft indestructo U-Line box.

If the book has been pressed and spine roll removed, a Mylite2 could be used.

Same advice applies to the OP, Gemini's are thin cardboard with perforated edges.

This translates into weak support.


https://www.uline.com/BL_1407/Kraft-Indestructo-Mailers



^
Not a brand new Mylite2, a Mylite2 that has been already used and stretched out slightly, to offset pressure issues.

I also only use "recycled" full backs that have been been "molded" into a natural concaved position to cradle a book's spine.

Every brand new fullback pack of 50 boards, even when buying by the case, has been slightly warped by the shrinkwrap.

Both FB's and Mylite2's should be "broken in" with common books (of the same era/size) before bagging/boarding better books with them.

I'd offer the same advice to @persianninja , as well.


I took a look at the book again and was mistaken, it's a 2 mil mylar in a GA 10 mil mylar. There isn't much pressure on the book as the internal mylar can be pulled out without any issues. There is about a 1/8" on either side of the 2 mil mylar and about 3/16 to 1/4" between the 2 mil and 10 mil mylar.

I didn't think there would be too much pressure using this method. I've seen dealers use the method you've described where they put a book in a 2 mil mylar with 2 layers of full backs. I would think that would put a lot of pressure on the book more than my method.

I'm not too familiar with the issues with the fortress cases. Does it have anything to do with shaken comic syndrome?


Yeah, I can see there isn't excessive pressure on the book but even so, it is pressure and over time, it can add up and cause spine stress.

The "Fortress" was a 1980's era comic display case that CGC (more or less) used a similiar premise in their "creep engine" cases in 4/2016. SCS could happen with fortress cases, as well.

Ditch Farenheit detailed these "creep engine" cases very well on his board, here's a link from Borock explaining the problem design of the Fortress case.

It's from Ditch's subforum on creep engines btw.



https://the-comic-book-forum.boards.net/thread/244/steve-borock-on-fortress-design
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