UV and humidity in/on a CBCS Slab?1576
Pages:
1
![]() |
shrewbeer private msg quote post Address this user | |
Cant seem to find much information on this topic. I understand that the inner well is "archival grade", but what exactly does that mean? - I like to hang my books on a rotating basis, some of which are in the sun (and I dont hang cheap books, currently use the mylarD with a toploader to protect). Is the slab or inner well UV resistant? - Are slabs airtight, and if so is the humidity set to a specific level prior to sealing? I currently rotate my books (99% ungraded/unslabbed)from wall to humidity controlled safe. Any info much appreciated! |
||
Post 1 IP flag post |
![]() |
AndyRexia private msg quote post Address this user | |
No idea about being UV resistant but the slabs are NOT airtight. | ||
Post 2 IP flag post |
![]() |
harmonicaman private msg quote post Address this user | |
This product might be useful to you. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CGC-New-case-Holder-Comic-Book-Frame-Display-7-colors-options-With-99-UV-glass-/391450438348?hash=item5b2443aacc:g:fl4AAOSwYmZXLNdE I can't personally vouch for them, I have not tried their holders out myself. I am shocked with the way I see comic stores display, often expensive comics in direct sunlight in their display cases or store windows. |
||
Post 3 IP flag post |
![]() |
shrewbeer private msg quote post Address this user | |
With a good thick eGerber mylarD bag they do just fine. I can buy them big enough bor a slab, but was kind of hoping maybe CBCS used it in the inner well | ||
Post 4 IP flag post |
![]() |
Kanaloa private msg quote post Address this user | |
Sun is bad but you can buy UV window roles to slow down minimize damage if insist on putting in sun "$10 will do like 20 cases". They stick on case and slide off easy. Better yet put it on your home windows which is what UV roles are for. Ceramic UV roles are best but more expensive. | ||
Post 5 IP flag post |
![]() |
Oxbladder private msg quote post Address this user | |
Archival Mylar/polyester film should not have any UV protection as that additive would pretty much compromise the archival value of the film. The outer shells may have such qualities. Even with UV protection hanging in direct sunlight for a long period of time is a bad idea. | ||
Post 6 IP flag post |
![]() |
Foghorn_Sam private msg quote post Address this user | |
Best advice; keep your books out of the light, any light as much as possible. Slabs not airtight; best to keep your inventory in a temperature and humidity controlled environment as much as possible. I've also heard somewhere, storing books in certain kinds of safes has caused some kind of tarnishing/rusting of staples, even on books in slabs. |
||
Post 7 IP flag post |
![]() |
Foghorn_Sam private msg quote post Address this user | |
This topic has come up before, so here's what I posted in an earlier thread. Here are some interesting and informative articles on the fading qualities of different kinds of light. http://www.lindsaydaniel.com/library/increasing-your-homes-value/articlescolumns1/control-light-sources-to-keep-art-from-fading.html http://c.ymcdn.com/sites/www.nfrccommunity.org/resource/resmgr/factsheets_2013/uvfactsheet2.pdf http://www.residentiallighting.com/what-light-sources-will-fade-artwork-and-fabrics http://www.theatrearts.biz/conservationpage.html and if you want an extended science lesson into how light fades and light protection, then this is the article for you.... https://www.nedcc.org/free-resources/preservation-leaflets/2.-the-environment/2.4-protection-from-light-damage |
||
Post 8 IP flag post |
![]() |
shrewbeer private msg quote post Address this user | |
This is what I use for my books. My original question though, was wether or not the CBCS slabs had any protection built in, and/or what the inner "archival" well actually is. ![]() |
||
Post 9 IP flag post |
![]() |
shrewbeer private msg quote post Address this user | |
I think I may be getting somewhere here though... looks like the cbcs inner well is PETG plastic (good stuff!), but petg is not naturally UV resistant. However, UV stabilizers CAN be added to the manufacturing process. So, I guess I can revise my questions to: 1. Does the PETG have the additives, or are there any thoughts of adding it in the future? 2. Is the well air tight or not? Unless Steve or Michael chimes in on this one I think I'll get a shit comic slabbed and submerge it in water to find out for myself haha ![]() |
||
Post 10 IP flag post |
![]() |
Foghorn_Sam private msg quote post Address this user | |
Here's an excerpt from another thread where CBCS describes their plastic and encapsulation process. UV protection is not mentioned, but there is a reference to the plastic being able to "breathe". I'm sure they've have probably addressed the UV question before but I can't find it. When we approached plastics, we went directly to the experts to get their opinions: a vice president at Dow Chemicals, a preservation expert at the Smithsonian, and several engineers and chemists at 5 different plastics companies. These experts universally recommended PETG for our purposes. We were told specifically not to use microchamber paper since it was unnecessary with PETG and in the long term, could harm the comic. When we asked about Barex, we were told not to use it (Barex was a plastic used in the food and medical industry, not in preservation because they typically expire after 3-7 years). We were told that Barex doesn’t breathe well and it would not be good for comics in the long term. We were told that Barex plus microchamber paper is a temporary improvement but still not good for preservation. Mylar is excellent as well, but it does not heat seal. The design of the outer shell was more complicated. We needed a plastic that would break when we wanted, but not break when we didn’t want it to break. It needed to be clear and lightweight (for shipping or carrying to conventions). After months of testing, we came up with a polystyrene with a blue tint. It passed all of our parameters. The end caps are made out of polycarbonate—all made right here in the U.S.A. The only problem we were left with was a creaking noise if you bend it. Removing the creak would mean using a heavier case (which actually would have been cheaper), or a more breakable case. No plastics company was able to produce a creak-less plastic that fulfilled all of our more serious parameters: strength, breakability, clarity, eye appeal, and durability. It also needed to be lightweight and sealable. We’ve heard that some people are bothered by the creaking or feel that it makes the case seem more flimsy. We can say without a doubt that this is the best case we tested (and we tested hundreds of mixtures). Managing cost was not a factor when we chose our materials. |
||
Post 11 IP flag post |
![]() |
shrewbeer private msg quote post Address this user | |
Good stuff, thanks! Your search skills seem to be a bit more advanced than mine ![]() |
||
Post 12 IP flag post |
![]() |
CatmanAmerica private msg quote post Address this user | |
Quote:Originally Posted by Foghorn_Sam From my experience, Phoenix Data Grade Safes are an excellent choice if you're going that route. Larger Phoenix Safes use a Sheetrock material that isn't prone to sweating. It's much easy to control humidity in this type of safe. Never known one of these to rust or even tarnish a staple. Some safes, especially cheaper ones like older model Sentry Safes may use chemicals in liquid form as a fire barrier between interior and exterior walls. When sealed those interior walls can sweat even without exposure to excessive heat. Storing comics in an enclosed space with high interior humidity is not advised. Who knows what those chemicals may do to comics. Regardless of the safe, I'd recommend that collectors control heat and humidity as much as possible to protect their perishable valuables. Use of desiccant pouches or similar products to absorb moisture, along with a barometer to measure humidity level and thermometer to verify the safe's interior is room temperature or cooler. Hope this information is useful. Cheers, Cat ![]() ![]() |
||
Post 13 IP flag post |
![]() |
shrewbeer private msg quote post Address this user | |
Good info. I recommend a nice Cannon safe kept underground to avoid the heat (basement) with electronic humidity controls inside to keep all the guns and comic books rust free, and of course preferably surrounded by alcoholic beverages ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
||
Post 14 IP flag post |
![]() |
Foghorn_Sam private msg quote post Address this user | |
Found this company that offers many display products for comic books, both graded and ungraded and with the option to add UV protection. Check them out. http://www.gradecomstore.com/products.html |
||
Post 15 IP flag post |
Pages:
1This topic is archived. Start new topic?