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How do you determine raw prices for buying moderately expensive books?15224

Collector moodswing private msg quote post Address this user
Just wanted to see what some members use to determine how much they would pay for a raw book. This pertains to online sales and not having the book in hand to thoroughly inspect. I find it hard to come up with prices as many sellers are poor graders and raw sales are all over the place. As an example, I am eyeballing a book that goes for around 700-800 in a 9.6. Seller has a nice copy of a raw that he says in NM. You can never assume 9.8s but without the book in hand, you really can't properly estimate the grade. You have to go by the sellers word. How close are you willing to pay for the grader price? Does anyone have a system they use? Like 20% of graded prices or something like that? Obviously buying expensive raws online is a gamble.
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Collector Sebastsk8 private msg quote post Address this user
You need pics of the book to accurately assume grade. If there are no pics available, I just don't buy it. Unless perhaps it's a reputable site saying the book is NM or whatever, but generally they'll have pics too if it's not a new release book.
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Collector Haljordanfan private msg quote post Address this user
What’s the book? I believe you’ve posted things like this before and the book has been lower than stipulated.

As the guy above said, never buy without a pic.
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Collector Gibby357 private msg quote post Address this user
I get the response about pictures but are you guys expecting a picture of front and back and every page within the book?
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Collector Sebastsk8 private msg quote post Address this user
All four corners front and back covers and a photo of interior pages to base page color.

I generally use ebay to buy books, anything incomplete or containing damaged pages that weren't disclosed I would return for sure.
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TRA LA LA esaravo private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibby357
I get the response about pictures but are you guys expecting a picture of front and back and every page within the book?


Welcome to the forum. For inexpensive books, you will probably only get a picture of the front cover. For a more expensive one, I need to see front and back covers (I need that for raw AND graded books). If the seller also posts interior covers and a picture of the centerfold, I am more likely to buy the book, and probably pay more if I like what I see (no signs of color touch, no popped staples, centerfold not detached, white or near white pages, etc).

Especially if it’s a seller you have not purchased from before, always ask questions and see if they will post more pictures. If they don’t, do not buy the book. I never buy anything with stock photos or that has pictures of books still in bags. If they can’t do that correctly, how do you think they package and ship?
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Not trying to be an ass since February 12, 2020. HulkSmash private msg quote post Address this user
@moodswing what’s the book? You could look at MCS pricing see if they have a raw copy close to the grade the seller is assuming. I would ask if the seller would work with you if it does not come back as “NM” and what grade the seller would consider “NM”. what would you the buyer and seller agree is “NM”based on the sellers assessment 9.4? 9.2? Or even VF/NM 9.0?

I have asked sellers what would happen if a book does not come back certified at or within .5 of described grade. The ones that are not confident in their grade or are blowing smoke up your ass will get defensive or just ghost you.
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Masculinity takes a holiday. EbayMafia private msg quote post Address this user
I think it's pretty rare to pay more than 9.2-9.4 slab prices for a raw book that I hope would grade 9.6 or 9.8. it's like 9.8 big win, 9.6 decent win, 9.4 break even, 9.2 small loss, etc.
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I'd like to say I still turned out alright, but that would be a lie. flanders private msg quote post Address this user
I would look at all the photos, determine a grade range of what it is and could be after pressing and pay for the low end of that range. For the NM 9.4 copy, if it looks 9.0-9.4 before a press, pay a 9.0 slabbed book price, less the cost of grading, pressing, and shipping, so worst case scenario you break even, if you submit it to be pressed & graded, and best case it comes back on the high end of your after pressing grade range and you make a decent ROI.

I'd also consider posting the seller's name before you purchase, just in case they have a bad reputation in the community.
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Collector moodswing private msg quote post Address this user
@Sebastsk8

I am saying you have pics but pics don't tell the entire story of the book.
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Collector moodswing private msg quote post Address this user
@HulkSmash

This is mostly pertaining to my current hunt for a copy of NYX 3. I am considering raw copies. Just trying to figure out decent prices for raws since I can only view pics online.
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Collector moodswing private msg quote post Address this user
@Gibby357

You should have several pics. If it is an older book, a pic of the first page is needed too because of color touch. You can also look at the book under light at different angles to detect spine tics, creases and indentations. Many of those defects do not show in pictures.
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Collector Nuffsaid111 private msg quote post Address this user
I use the same mantra that the graded community uses... "buy the book; not the grade".
Although it's more of "buy the book; not the stated condition".

Sellers overgrade; some even undergrade. I don't care what they think. I only care about what I think the condition is.

Ask for pictures if something is odd. Use your knowledge and good judgment with what you've learned in the hobby. Then compare similarly looking comics once YOU have assigned a grade to the comic. Not the seller.
Obviously ask about resto.
From there you can begin to assign a $$$ value.

In my hundreds and hundreds of online raw purchases I've been disappointed 1% of the time. Yes I keep records. Ill take those odds over the graded book prices/purchases all day, every day, any day.
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If the viagra is working you should be well over a 9.8. xkonk private msg quote post Address this user
Quote:
Originally Posted by moodswing


This is mostly pertaining to my current hunt for a copy of NYX 3. I am considering raw copies.

Best of luck. All the raws I follow end up going for 9.4 or even 9.6 prices. Insane in my opinion.
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Collector 00slim private msg quote post Address this user
I take the Seller’s grade in consideration. With front & back pics, I make the best assessment I can. Without pics, I assume a grade below the advertised grade.

Then, I search e-bay “sold” listings for the book in the same grade range & see if I can determine a rough average. It helps if there are 3 or more recent sales.

If the book is hot at the moment, I create a saved search on e-bay & wait for an auction later down the line & see if I can get a better deal.
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Collector KatKomics private msg quote post Address this user
I don't know....for $700+ I want the book in hand...

If not then I pony up for the slab....might take a 9.4 or 9.6 to reduce costs and frequently on moderns they haven't been pressed...and examination of the pictures or even the graders notes can really help in identifying 9.4/9.6 that have 9.8 potential (if 9.8 is what you are really after)

Always assume sellers grade is off, especially when dealing with 9.6 vs 9.8 - even 9.4, most seller really have no idea.

Many of us here do have at least an idea and still I don't think most would advertise a raw as 9.x vs 9.x
Post 16 IP   flag post
Collector moodswing private msg quote post Address this user
@KatKomics

I don't think I have paid over $100 for a raw book online. $100 is usually my threshold for a raw. Might make more sense to pay a little bit more for the security of a graded book.
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Collector Belarak private msg quote post Address this user
Whenever a seller just gives you the front and back photo, I ask for more. I also ask if there are any spine ticks or other defects not visible in the photos. If they are not trying to hide damage by not providing detailed pictures they are usually more than willing to accommodate you.

The other key is to find out how they ship. I have declined to buy books from some sellers because they don't use Gemini folders. I have had too many books shipped in packages with no protection. I bought one without checking the other day that was shipped in a bubble wrap envelope with no cardboard protection. Needless to say it had several spine ticks.

When in doubt ASK! If they're wanting you to buy, they will more than likely answer you.
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Collector 00slim private msg quote post Address this user
Honestly, I don’t like paying over $300 for a raw book, no matter if I can inspect it in-person, or not.

I did pay $1000 for a raw ASM 14 at SDCC about 3 or 4 years ago. The seller was an Overstreet advisor & the book actually looked great.

It STILL came back a half point below his assessed grade from CGC.

I’d certainly consider looking for a slab for any book in the $700+ range.
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Collector etapi65 private msg quote post Address this user
I just can't bring myself to buy raw without being able to see it myself anymore. I've been burned by even the most extensive pics missing major flaws. If it's anything over $75, I don't buy unless I can see it.
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Collector southerncross private msg quote post Address this user
I'll buy books raw in the hand if I can look at them. I've bought two Avengers 1s doing that.

The most I've paid for a raw book online
was a FF 4 for $475 graded as a 4.0.
When I got the book it looked like a 3.5 and cgc agreed with me.
I wanted a copy so didn't care and 15 years later I can add a zero on the end for what I paid.

But it general for a pricey book I'd rather buy it slabbed.
And keep a open mind and be flexible.

Six months before the first Avengers movie I was offered an Avengers 1 to upgrade.
It was priced as a VG and when I inspected it I graded it as a 6.0 so bought it.
cgc graded it as a 6.5 so that was a win.

Just learn how to grade tight when looking at books raw as you can use that skill to pick up a bargain for your collection. 👍
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Collector southerncross private msg quote post Address this user
@moodswing just remember the fmv is for graded not raw.
When you buy it raw you have to factor in the grading and pressing costs.

Also if you get it graded and bought at a 9.4 and it comes back 9.2 or 9.0 that's a very expensive lower grade copy.
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